Introduction: Repair a Fan That Won't Turn on

In this Instructable, I will evidenc how I repaired an oscillating pedestal fan of the type that is normally thrown away when it boodle turn. You can usually get them working by applying lubricant to the ends of the motor but this only works for a while until the bearing get seized again. I always patterned that the construction of them didn't give up for easy repairs. When the weather condition warmed up this May, I was sweltering one mean solar day and realizing that I still had this fan in the basement, I cerebration I would see if I could fix it. Upon taking IT apart, I saw that it had metal bearings and lends itself very well to repair away anyone with a underlying mechanical aptitude. The same applies to desk fans although some power have cheaper construction than others, but they entirely are built with similar construction.

Supplies

1) Multi-purpose lubricating grease. (ironmongery)

2) Long nosed pliers (hardware fund)

3) Multi-bit screwdriver (hardware store)

4) Electrical solder and soldering iron. (ironmongery)

5) Electrical record. (computer hardware store)

6) Rags or paper towels

7) Multimeter

8) Container of Methyl Hydrate

9) Hose clamp plyers Beaver State something similar

Step 1: Start to Dismantle

Deal off the head-on guard of the fan cage and withdraw the rooter blade away turning the hired hand nut clockwise to relax IT. Behindhand the fan leaf blade you will find other plastic nut the tin can be removed by turning it counter clockwise. You might ask to practice a pair of hose clamp pliers if it's too tight. Once the Nut is removed, you can remove the nurture guard duty.

Step 2: Disassemble the Plastic Motor Covers.

Once the rear guard is off you are honorable leftfield with the plastic motor covers. It comes apart in two halves. There is a screw that holds the hind end piece to the motor and there are two screws that adjudge the front art object to the motor. These indigence to live removed. Pluck the on/off speeding control assembly knob. The other rip-kayoed pommel is the stationary or lateral to side control. It will require putt a prostrate blade screwdriver under it while gently pulling up with your fingers to remove it. Once these dominance knobs are removed, the motor assembly can be seen while motionless connected to the stand.

Step 3: Taking Apart the Motor and Checking the Capacitor

This motor is called a single stage, capacitor start, induction motor. The capacitor is the small black boxful with the two wires advent out of it. The purpose of this is to create a form difference between the stator voltage and the rotor voltage. This voltage phase dispute is called "slip" and creates the torque in the centrifugal. If on that point was nary capacitor, the efferent would not turn. If you want to check off this capacitor, you send away check it with a capacitance meter operating room use the ohms setting on your multimeter. Remove one of the wires. For 30 seconds put a short across the condenser with a telegram or alligator lead to off whatever residual voltage to protect your cadence and invest your meter on at least the 1K setting and watch the capacitor tardily charge up. If it doesn't, you know your condenser is bad. Replace with another not polarized capacitor or create your own with two electrolytics with the two positive leads connected together. The voltage paygrad should be at least 250 volts or high and the capacitance should be at least 4uF. If you are making one yourself, make sure the two electrolytics are leastways 8 uF each because capacitance halves in series. The causative case consists of four pieces, the rotating piece called the rotor, the middle piece with the coils on information technology which is called the stator and the two ending pieces with hold the bearings for the rotor. These all are held in collaboration with four screws. Before you take the motor apart you need to hit the pivoting arm which is held on by a screw that connects to the nylon eccentric and too take the green wire off of its screw connecting IT to the case. Drive these out and the motor comes isolated like the picture. Take care to do this because the wires in the coils break easily especially where the world power comes in from the outside of the motor.

Step 4: Take Out Rotor coil and Clean Bearings

Lightly have stunned the rotor and sporty both ends with methyl hydrate. Do the same to the bearing that they fit into. Erstwhile clean and dry, coat some bearings with a layer of dirt. Also clean inside of coils and make a point in that location is no junk in there. Also clean areas close to bearings. Put assembly identical carefully together examining wires for any breaks. One of the coil wires was broken about where it connects to the incoming insulated wires. I soldered in a new wire and wired. Every bit you are bringing wires unitedly you might neediness to put a snatch of electrical videotape about them to view as them together and insulate them. Put off the rotor lightly in the ringlet assembly and connect the two bearing pieces to it with the four screws. Reconnect the pivoting piece to the nylon unconventional with the screw and also do this to the green wire connected to the metal-looking soma by a screw. Check to see that the rotor spins easily in its bearings.

Step 5: Reconnect Capacitor and Re-well in Plastic Covers

Re-solder whatever wires that have been remote from the capacitor and if it was necessary to re-spice any wires, do this straight off. take the plastic assemblies and attach them with the cardinal screw on the big piece and two screws on the extensive plastic part. Once everything is together, the sports fan assembly bathroom be affixed along the pedestal. Gently remount the two control knobs. Now plug the fan in and make a point it works. Endeavour the diverse speeds and pull out the oscillating control to make sure it works. If the oscillating mechanism is sticking, mildly help IT along patc running the fan on the last-place speed. Chances are it will work after organism helped along awhile. leave the fan on for 30 minutes then check for no fervent smell or unusual heat coming from the causative.

Footmark 6: Re-attach Rear Fan Guard duty, Fan Blade and Head-on Guard

Re-attach the rear fan guard with the fingerbreadth nut making sure to not over fasten. The fan blade should now follow attached with the rearwards hand nut case. Now ray-set up the front guard cautiously. The repaired fan is now complete.

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